Curls

       As cosmetologists, we have to learn to style the hair in some pretty basic and
seemingly primitive ways. But, if the truth is told, once you master these techniques,
they can be a valuable skill. With nothing more than a comb and a handful of pins or
clips and some styling product, you can create some beautiful looks for yourself.
       Here are a few very simple and very basic styling techniques:
 
Finger waves:
 
       If you've seen the hit movie "Chicago" and admired Renee Zellwiger's lovely dos,
but wondered how she could have managed it locked in her jail cell, the technique is
known as finger-waving.
 
       In finger waves, you take wet hair, with styling product added liberally, and you
comb the hair into ridges and curves with your fingers. Decide where you want to begin
the waves and lay your middle finger flat across the hair. Then, take your comb, press
it against the side of the finger, and in one-inch sections, drag the comb (teeth
straight down) sideways along the finger until a ridge forms. Without lifting the comb,
lay it flat against the scalp.
 
       Next, press your index finger down beside the middle finger and gently press the
ridge to hold it tight. Turn the comb teeth back to vertical and comb the hair out and
curved back in the opposite direction. Shift your middle finger down so that you can
continue building the ridge as far as you want. You should end up with a ridge of hair
moving in one direction and a "c-shaped" wave in the opposite direction.
 
       Next move down along the hair about one or two finger-widths and start making
another ridge in the same direction as the curve above it. Build your 'waves" down as
far as you want.
 
       When allowed to dry, finger waves can be combed out gently, resulting in a soft
wave pattern in the otherwise straight hair.
 
Pin Curls:
 
       Unless the woman had truly short-short hair, most finger wave styles were finished
off using pin curls as accents. Generally found at the fringe area, the cheeks and along
the nape of the neck, pin curls were a staple of the 'modern girl's' beauty regimen.
 
       Pin curls can be either "carved" and shaped flat to the head, or sectioned and
placed 'on base" like tiny disks of hair. To make the pin curl, segment the wet and
product-laden hair with your comb and comb it into a ribbon. Using your fingers, shape
the ribbon into a circular curl and overlap the hair as needed depending on the length
of the hair.
 
       Secure the completed curl disk with a pin or clip and continue to another segment.
The segments you use can have any shape, and along the hairline, triangle-shaped
segments have the added benefit of blending more easily than any other segment in
a dry style.
 
       The results achievable depend on how flat to the head the curl was made, how
large the curl was, and how long the hair was (and therefore how many times it
overlapped itself).

Barrel Curls:
 
       The barrel curl is technically a pin curl, but is one that stands up and away from
the head. It is anchored on the underside of the curl by a clip or pin, and results in
curls with more volume than regular pin curls. If it helps you to do so, think of the
barrel curl as a roller set without the rollers.
 
       Take your wet and product laden hair and segment it as you would to roll it on
rollers. Instead of rollers, however, wrap the hair loosely around your finger. Once
it's completely wrapped, slide a clip or pin along the underside of the curl to grasp the
hair and gently slide your finger free. It takes practice, but it can provide very pleasing
results. In fact, I know of one woman whose family is wild about camping. She loves
these techniques because she can use them on family forays into the great outdoors
and not have to worry about what she's going to do with her hair.
 
       Our demonstration style here shows all three of these techniques in use. We have
three barrel curls at the fringe area, finger waves on the top, crown and upper nape of
the neck, and pin curls along the side and bottom of the hairstyle for added volume.
You can see with the finished style that it looks like you've had all the usual tools at
your disposal, but none were used.